2019 Dhondt-Grellet, Nogers Premier Cru

Champagne, France | 100% Chardonnay | 97 WA

This is, quite simply, one of the high points of Adrien Dhondt’s entire portfolio. The 2019 Les Nogers is where Adrien has fully realised the incredible potential of this single, complex Premier Cru lieu-dit in Cuis.

Sourced from Chardonnay planted by massal selection in 1974, Les Nogers is fascinatingly complex, drawing from two altitudes and two distinct geological profiles within the same site. The most pronounced, intense barrels—matured for 11 months, with about one-third new oak—are selected for this final, powerful blend.

The wine is jaw-droppingly expressive. It emerges from the glass with a bouquet of honeysuckle, cedar, tangerine peel, and smoke. On the palate, it is full-bodied, concentrated, and intensely layered. Compared to his other superb releases, the Les Nogers is decidedly more fleshy and textural, yet perfectly balanced by significant dry extract and focused acidity.

This is a world-class, single-vineyard Champagne built for the cellar. Well worth seeking out.