2017 Benoit Dehu, l'Orme

Champagne, France | 100% Pinot Noir | Brut Nature | 93pts Vinous

A wild, spicy take on Blanc de Noirs—bursting with red currants, tangerine peel, and a touch of game. The 2017’s bold personality (Galloni’s "extrovert" descriptor is spot-on) makes it ideal for charcuterie or aged cheeses.

Déhu’s zero-dosage style lets the old-vine Pinot Noir shine. Think of it as Champagne’s answer to Volnay.