2019 Dhondt-Grellet, "Le Bateau VV" Cramant Grand Cru

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Champagne, France | 100% Chardonnay | 98 WA

If you want to taste what modern, elite Grower Champagne is all about, this is it.

Adrien Dhondt-Grellet's 'Le Bateau' Vieille Vigne is the wine that puts him in the conversation with Champagne's absolute legends. It's a single-parcel, 100% Grand Cru Chardonnay from vines planted in 1951 - some of the oldest on the entire estate.

This small plot in Cramant is farmed with obsessive care, yielding an ultra-concentrated, textural wine that speaks volumes about the terroir. The 2019 Vintage is particularly brilliant, earning an immense 98/100 from The Wine Advocate, who called it "arguably the most harmonious wine of his 12-year winemaking career."

Forget delicate bubbles; this is Champagne with Burgundy power. It's built in the cellar using barrels (influenced by Adrien’s love of Burgundy winemaking) and disgorged with a tiny, bone-dry 1 gram per litre dosage.

What you get in the glass: Enormous concentration, but zero heaviness. It hits you with complex aromas of grilled sesame, lemon oil, and a flinty, crushed-rock minerality. The texture is powerful and expansive, yet focused by a stunning acid line that snaps into a super-long, chalky finish. This is a benchmark Blanc de Blancs - rare, utterly delicious, and designed to age for decades.